Warm-season grass

Zoysia Grass Lawn Care Schedule

Zoysia is a warm-season grass that forms a thick, carpet-like lawn and tolerates more cold and light shade than most of its relatives, which lets it stretch into the transition zone. It is slow to establish and slow to recover, but once dense it crowds out most weeds.

Type: Warm-season
Mowing height: 0.75–2″
Nitrogen budget: 2–3 lbs N / 1,000 sq ft / yr
Growth habit: Spreading (self-repairs)
Shade tolerance: Moderate
Drought tolerance: High
Traffic tolerance: High
USDA zones: 6–10

Get region-specific timing

Pick your USDA hardiness zone for a Zoysia schedule with timing shifted to your local season:

Key care windows

Timing windows are flexible (early / mid / late) and tuned to a typical transition-zone season — soil temperature and your local weather should always have the final say.

mid-February to mid-March

Spring pre-emergent (crabgrass)

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide as soil temperatures approach 55°F to stop crabgrass and other summer weeds before they germinate. A second application 6–8 weeks later extends control through the season.

Don't apply a pre-emergent if you plan to seed — it blocks grass seed too. Always read and follow the product label — it is the legal authority on rates, timing, and safety. These windows are regional estimates, not a prescription; defer to the label and your local extension office.

mid-February to late March

Spring green-up & first mow

As soil temperatures reach about 55°F the lawn breaks dormancy and greens up. Once it's about half green, mow low to clear dormant material and let sunlight reach the crowns. Don't fertilize until it's at least 80% green.

late April to mid-May

First feeding

Make the first fertilizer application 2–4 weeks after full green-up, once the lawn is actively growing. Zoysia needs less nitrogen than bermuda — roughly 2–3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft per year, split across the summer growing season. Over-feeding accelerates thatch buildup without improving the lawn.

Resist the urge to push zoysia with extra nitrogen — excess feeding drives thatch, not color. Keep any single feeding at or below ~1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft. Always read and follow the product label — it is the legal authority on rates, timing, and safety. These windows are regional estimates, not a prescription; defer to the label and your local extension office.

early May to late June

Aeration & dethatching

Core-aerate (and dethatch if the thatch layer is over about ½") during the peak growing season, when warm-season turf recovers fastest. Avoid aerating dormant or drought-stressed turf.

early June to late August

Summer feeding program

Summer is the warm-season growth peak. Zoysia needs less nitrogen than bermuda — roughly 2–3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft per year, split across the summer growing season. Over-feeding accelerates thatch buildup without improving the lawn. Spread the annual budget across the season rather than applying it all at once.

Never exceed ~1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft in a single feeding. Always read and follow the product label — it is the legal authority on rates, timing, and safety. These windows are regional estimates, not a prescription; defer to the label and your local extension office.

early June to late August

Summer weed & pest watch

Spot-treat broadleaf weeds during active growth, never on drought-stressed turf. Watch for insect and disease pressure in hot, humid weather and treat problem areas rather than the whole lawn.

early September to late September

Final feeding & soil test

Give a final feeding in early fall, then stop nitrogen — late-season nitrogen pushes tender growth into frost. Fall is also the best time to take a soil test so amendments are ready before spring.

Stop nitrogen about 6 weeks before your first expected frost. Always read and follow the product label — it is the legal authority on rates, timing, and safety. These windows are regional estimates, not a prescription; defer to the label and your local extension office.

late September to mid-October

Fall pre-emergent (winter weeds)

A fall pre-emergent applied before soil cools below about 70°F controls winter annual weeds like Poa annua and henbit.

Always read and follow the product label — it is the legal authority on rates, timing, and safety. These windows are regional estimates, not a prescription; defer to the label and your local extension office.

early October to late October

Optional winter overseed

For green color over winter dormancy, you can overseed with perennial ryegrass once soil cools below about 70°F. It's optional and adds maintenance — skip it if you're happy with a dormant, straw-colored lawn.

If you overseed, do not apply a fall pre-emergent — it will stop the ryegrass from germinating.

early November to late December

Winter dormancy

Expect a brown, dormant lawn from first frost until spring green-up. Hold off on fertilizer and pre-emergent. A light watering during extended winter drought helps prevent desiccation.

Month-by-month schedule

A quick at-a-glance plan for Zoysia grass, month by month.

Month	Season	What to do
January	Winter· dormant	Dormant season — no feeding; water lightly only during extended drought.
February	Winter	Watch for green-up; do the first low mow to clear winter material. Apply crabgrass pre-emergent before soil reaches ~55°F.
March	Spring	Watch for green-up; do the first low mow to clear winter material. Apply crabgrass pre-emergent before soil reaches ~55°F.
April	Spring	Make the first feeding once the lawn is fully green and growing. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
May	Spring	Make the first feeding once the lawn is fully green and growing. Core-aerate during peak growth; dethatch if thatch is heavy. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
June	Summer	Core-aerate during peak growth; dethatch if thatch is heavy. Continue the summer feeding program on schedule. Spot-treat weeds and scout for pests; water deeply in heat. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
July	Summer	Continue the summer feeding program on schedule. Spot-treat weeds and scout for pests; water deeply in heat. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
August	Summer	Continue the summer feeding program on schedule. Spot-treat weeds and scout for pests; water deeply in heat. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
September	Fall	Apply a fall pre-emergent for winter weeds before soil cools. Make the final feeding of the year; take a soil test. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
October	Fall	Optionally overseed with ryegrass for winter color. Apply a fall pre-emergent for winter weeds before soil cools. Mow at 0.75–2" and water deeply as needed.
November	Fall· dormant	Lawn is dormant — no feeding; water lightly only in extended drought.
December	Winter· dormant	Lawn is dormant — no feeding; water lightly only in extended drought.

Zoysia care guide

Mowing

Mow zoysia at 0.75–2", a touch higher in shade. Its stiff blades dull rotary mowers quickly, so keep the blade sharp. Because it grows slowly, you'll mow less often than bermuda.

Watering

Give zoysia about 1" of water per week, deeply and infrequently. Its deep roots make it drought tolerant once established; overwatering encourages thatch and disease.

Fertilizing

Zoysia needs less nitrogen than bermuda — roughly 2–3 lbs per 1,000 sq ft per year, split across the summer growing season. Over-feeding accelerates thatch buildup without improving the lawn.

Weed control

A dense zoysia stand is its own best weed control. Use a spring pre-emergent for crabgrass and a fall pre-emergent for winter annuals; spot-treat broadleaf escapes during active growth.

Strengths

Dense growth naturally chokes out weeds
Best cold tolerance of the common warm-season grasses
Handles moderate shade and foot traffic

Watch out for

Slow to establish and slow to repair damage
Builds thatch — needs periodic dethatching
Turns straw-brown in winter dormancy

Safety first

Resist the urge to push zoysia with extra nitrogen — excess feeding drives thatch, not color. Keep any single feeding at or below ~1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft.